Symptom: The headlights come up and light when switched ‘on’ but fail to go back down when the headlights are switched ‘off.’
Diagnosis: This is a common failure of the DOWN limit switch. The lights come just fine, but when you go to lower them, they don’t go back down because of one of two common failure modes:
The limit switch is stuck and “telling” the system the headlights are already down. Since your headlights are down most all of the time, the switch is constantly compressed and often gets stuck.
The plastic regulator gear is cracked or broken. Turn the “knuckle buster hand crank” knob located tightly with the left side top of the radiator. If it turns and lowers the headlights, that’s a good thing, because getting to the limit switch is much easier. If it is jammed and doesn’t turn, the plastic regulator gear has cracked or broken and needs replacing. The headlight regulator uses the same brass replacement gear as the OEM window regulators.
Solution 1: Raise the headlights lights, then spray the limit switch with a liberal dose of WD-40 while cycling the limit switch repeatedly by hand. This should free up the stuck contacts and restore the switch to its original operation. If that doesn’t work, proceed to ‘Solution 2.’
Solution 2: Replace the gear in the headlight regulator motor with a new brass gear from one of the vendors.
Raise the headlights and prop up the headlight buckets with a block of wood between the front edge of the body and the top of the fender.
One limit switch needs to be removed from the plate, and all wires disconnected.
Remove the three 10mm (M5) bolts and withdraw the motor and gearbox through the access hole in the front edge of the front fender well. Note: If you are unable to remove the headlight regulator motor in the is fashion, then drain and remove the radiator, then remove the headlight regulator motor.
Disassemble and replace the broken plastic gear with a new brass gear sourced from one of our vendors.
